Fabric Guide

Acetate is one of the first manufactured fibers. It has a crisp feel and silk-like luster. While it drapes beautifully, it is not a strong fiber and its resistance to abrasion is poor. Acetate fabric resists shrinkage, moths, and mildew. It does not absorb moisture readily, so it dries quickly. Heat can make the fiber more pliable.

Important: Acetone and alcohol can dissolve acetate fibers. If dyeing is needed, special dyes are required.

Acrylic is a generic name for synthetic fibers derived from at least 85% polyacrylonitrile. It is often used for base layers or insulating fabrics. Within the textile industry, acrylic is known for a soft, wool-like feel, wash-and-wear performance, colorfastness, and wrinkle resistance. It is commonly found in socks and in blends with cotton (for example, fleece).

True alpaca is hair from the alpaca animal, a member of the llama family in the South American Andes. Alpaca is silk-like, durable, lightweight, and warm, with a natural luster similar to mohair. If guard hairs are used, it may feel stiff. Alpaca hair can be white, black, fawn, or gray. It is commonly used in suits, coats, sweaters, sportswear, and linings.

The clipped fiber of the angora goat is called mohair. It comes in various weaves and knits and appears smooth and white after scouring. Mohair is highly resilient, very strong, and known for its high luster. Value is often determined by luster more than softness. Mohair is used in carpets, upholstery, curtains, and some apparel.

Angora rabbit hair is lightweight, extremely warm, and fluffy. It can shed or mat over time and is often blended with wool. It is commonly found in knitwear such as gloves, scarves, and sweaters.

Related to the Scottish Argyle clan, this diamond-shaped knit pattern is traditionally made in three colors but is also found in two-color versions. Originally hand-knitted, argyle is now often machine-made using a method called intarsia. Argyle socks are traditionally worn with kilts.

Originating in Java, batik is created by applying wax to fabric in a decorative pattern, dyeing the fabric, then removing the wax. The process may be repeated multiple times for layered designs. Batik is common in dresses and home décor.

Bouclé is often made from wool, though it can also be rayon, silk, linen, or blends. It is typically created with looped yarns, producing a textured surface. Bouclé comes in a variety of weights and may ravel easily. It is common in coats, suits, dresses, and sportswear.

Brocade is a rich woven fabric often made from silk, rayon, cotton, or blends. It is typically created using jacquard or dobby weaving and may include colored or metallic threads in elaborate designs. Brocade is commonly used in evening wear, church vestments, interior furnishings, and ceremonial garments.

Camel hair is lightweight, lustrous, and soft, often left in its natural tan to brownish-black color. It is warm and typically has a longer nap. Higher-grade camel hair is more expensive. It is used in coats, sport coats, women’s suiting, sweaters, blankets, and rugs.

Cashmere comes from the Kashmir goat and is known for its soft, silky finish. It can be found in a variety of weaves and weights, most commonly as twill or knit. Cashmere is naturally white, black, brown, or gray but is often dyed in many shades. Because it is delicate and downy, cashmere requires careful handling. It is commonly used in sweaters, dresses, tops, and accessories.

This French lightweight silk is recognized by its supreme luster and drapability.  Today, you may find it made from rayon, cotton and other manufactured fibers.  With a sheen on one side, the back is dull. Best usage is pajamas, dresses and draped gowns.  Available in solids and prints.

Made from cotton and any of the main textile fibers. “Chenille” is French for caterpillar. When you look at this textile, you can understand why because of its hair appearance.  Best usage is (warm and cozy) sweaters and blankets.

Silk, rayon, cotton or synthetics with a plain weave. A light sheer or transparent fabric made with very fine, tightly twisted fibers.  Despite looking flimsy, this textile is very strong.  When sewing, chiffon can be difficult to handle.  Best suited for shirring, draping, gathering and tucking.

Originated from China and made from cotton with a twill weave. (Think ‘Dockers’.)  Fabric is combined of two-ply warp that has a sheen.  Due to its minimal care, armies adopted chino fabric. Often, you can find it in army uniforms, summer suits, dresses and sportswear.

Made from cotton, rayon, and other textile fibers.  In addition, this fabric has an extra filling yarn; it is in the velvet family.  You can find corduroy with narrow, medium and wide Wales.  Typically, it is washable and wears well.  With a very soft luster, it is popular in children’s clothing, dresses, pants, jackets, skirts, bedspreads, upholstery and more.

Where do we begin? Organic cotton is a natural, vegetable fiber that is of great economic importance.  Organic cotton is a strong and absorbent fabric that takes well to laundering. Cotton is strong, absorbent and washes well.  It can also be dyed, which further enhances its popularity.

Cotton is one of the world’s most popular textile fibers. Along with organic cotton, you may also be familiar with cotton flannel, Pima cotton, quilting cotton and the different types of cotton blends.

Made from silk, manmade synthetics, woolen and worsted cotton.  Often gauze-like, crepe is a fine with a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish.  You may find it in different weights and sheerness.  When fine, it drapes well and provides a slimming effect.  Depending on the weight, crepe can be found in dresses, suiting and coats.

Originally made from horsehair, it is now made of cotton or synthetic fibers.  Woven fiber provides high rigidity.  It is smooth, stiff and very strong.  Today, crinoline can be found in almost every color imaginable.  Best usage would be dress lining or hat interlining.

Typically, it is made from linen, silk, rayon, cotton, wool and synthetics.  For the pattern, a Jacquard loom is used.  At times, patterns can be extremely ornate.  If you have ever felt damask, you would agree that this textile can be stiff, durable and reversible.  The firmer the texture, the better quality.  Damask launders well and retains its high luster. When it comes to cost, this fabric can range quite a bit.

Everyone is familiar with this denim! This cotton with a twill weave originally came in dark blue (indigo), brown or dark gray.  In the beginning of its usage, it was used mostly in work clothes. Today, you can find denim in any color, weight or style.  Where you do find denim? In everything! Casual clothing, couture, slipcovers, uniforms, upholstery and more.

Down comes from a goose or duck’s soft under-feathers. When dry, they are naturally warm, soft and lightweight.  If wet, the feathers are almost considered ‘useless’.  Typically, down is used as the insulation of sleeping bags.  In addition to be consider the best in insulator’s weight, it is also the most compressible.

Made of wool, specialty hair fibers or cotton. The weave can be plain, twill, pile or knitted.  It has a deep, soft nap or pile; this is obtained by heavy napping with wire brushes or pile weave.  This provides air space providing good insulation properties – minus the heaviness.  Over time, the nap can wear down. Higher-quality fabric wears well. Due to the material being bulky, it may be difficult to manipulate.  Mostly, you can find it in coats and other types of outerwear.

Worsted cotton, rayon, or blends with a steep twill. Certain types (e.g., worsted, spun rayon or cotton) are smooth and durable.  Gabardine has a clear, tightly woven finish that is rather lustrous. However, it can be given a dull finish.  You can find this fabric in varying weights.  Typically, gabardine’s pressing is left to the professionals. Find it in suiting, coats, raincoats, uniforms and button-downs.

In a plain weave, gingham is made from organic cotton, cotton blends, or synthetics.  The cloth can be dyed or printed.   Unless pre-shrunk, inexpensive versions may shrink considerably in the wash.  Typically, gingham launders well though.  It has a soft, dull luster that wrinkles. (There are some wrinkle-resistant options popping up.)   Best usage is in dresses. Blouses, trimmings, children’s clothing, aprons, beach wear, curtains, pajamas and bedspreads.

Today, hemp has become more and more popular. For many vegans, hemp is not a ‘new’ concept.  In fact, it has been used in garments (and other products) for a long time.  The fibers are strong, pliable and moth-resistant.  From clothing to interior décor, you can find hemp.

Using a jacquard head (on a jacquard loom), it is a woven design.  They can be simple to multi-colored elaborate. The loom operates a bit like the roller on a player piano. Instead of notes, it provides instructions to the machine on how to create the design.

Made from wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon or synthetics.  While there are several ways to knit, all jersey is known for is elastic and excellent draping qualities.  Plain, fancy designs or tweed, jersey can take on the look of a woven fabric.  It both wears and washes well. Best usage is dress-making, sportswear, suiting, coats, gloves, sweaters and hats.

From the Kashmir goat, a hair fiber found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, China, Persia, Turkestan, and Outer Mongolia. While mostly found in plain or twill, you can find it in all weaves -and knits.  Often, Kashmir is mixed with wool or synthetics.  This cut costs and extends its lifetime. Loved for its very soft, silky finish, it is lightweight and delicate.  The natural fiber is white, black, brown or gray but can be dyed a variety of shades. It also comes in different weights.

Real leather is from the skin of an animal that has been tanned or otherwise ‘dressed’.  Full Top Grain indicates the very best hides available.  If a hide does not require sanding or buffing, it is considered ‘full top grain’.  Whether the highest classification or not, Hallak’s leather experts provide expert care.

Cloth woven from flax.  Linen is ideal for those warm weather months.  Best usage would be suiting, tops, bottoms, dresses, drapery, pillow cushion covers and more.  Looks great both ‘natural’, dyed or printed.

Elastic, polyurethane fiber or fabric.   If you played any sports or simply love form-fitting clothing, you are very familiar with lycra.  Typically, you can find it blended with cotton and other fabrics.

A very fine nylon or polyester filaments.  If you are familiar with micro-fiber, then you know how light, soft and breathable it is. Many towels and eyeglass cloths are made from this multi-purpose fabric.

Microfleece is a velvety soft, loose-fitting fabric that is super comfortable.  Pairs best with a lightweight or midweight layer underneath.  Typically, microfleece is considered a base layer. 

From the angora goat, this fabric is smooth, glossy and wiry. The long, wavy hair is sometimes imitated by a wool or blend.  However, mohair is 2 ½ times as strong as wool.  At times, it can have a cotton warp or mohair filling (brillantine).  Similar to alpaca, you can find mohair in linings, pile fabrics, suiting, upholstery, dress materials, felt hats and sweaters.

Silk, rayon, or cotton with a weave that is plain or in a crosswise rib.  Typically, moire has a watermarked finish that is fairly stiff with body. By pressing the fabric between engraved cylinders, the design is imprinted; it causes the crushed and uncrushed parts to reflect light.  Unfortunately, the pattern is not permanent except on acetate rayon. Best usage would be evening wear, coats, drapery and bedspreads.

A smooth, delicately woven cotton fabric.  Muslin is used for dresses, shirts, sheeting and curtains. If you are a fan of our wedding gown preservations, you may already be familiar with muslin.  All museum-archival preservation boxes are placed in a muslin cover to further protect the garment.

A very strong and resistant fiber.  It is elastic, easy-to-wash and quite lustrous.  From being non-absorbent, it can return to its original shape easily.  While nylon can be resistant to some dyes, it is also resistant to moths and other insects.  You can find it used in women’s hosiery, knitted or woven lingerie, socks, sweaters, rugs, carpets, tents, sleeping bags and duffles.

Silk or rayon with a plain weave.  This thin, stiff, transparent silk or synthetic fabric is ideal for dresses.  With a very wiry feel, you will often find it is used in “After 5” dresses, trimming, neckwear, millinery and linings (for other sheer fabrics).  Organza crushes and musses fairly easily.  Fortunately, it can also be easily pressed.

Very common fabric that is extremely resilient – smooth, crisp and particularly springy. Additional qualities: shape determined by heat, insensitive to moisture, lightweight and strong.   This textile is resistant to creasing, shrinkage, stretching, mildew and abrasion.  Polyester is readily washable.

A crosswise rib in cotton, wool, and other textile fibers.  It is mercerized and has quite a high luster.  Textile may be bleached, dyed or printed. Often, heavy poplin with a water-repellent finish is ideal for outdoor use. Some are also mildew-proof and fire-retardant. Alternatively, poplin can also be given a suede finish. It is used in sportswear of all kinds: shirts, boys’ suits, uniforms, draperies, blouses, and dresses.

You can often find rayon in clothing, draperies, upholstery, carpets, tablecloths, bedspreads and more.   (In addition, rayon can also be found in automobile tires, conveyor belts and hoses.)  All of these items are made from viscose; this a cellulose fiber that is highly absorbent.  While rayon has a tendency to shrink, it does not melt in high temperatures.  Rayon is favored for its dye-ability, fairly soft and drapes well.

Sateen is commonly found in dresses, sportswear, blouses, robes, pajamas, linings, draperies, bedspreads and slipcovers.  Typically, sateen is cotton. However, some is made in rayon with a five-harness or filling-face weave.  The fabric has a glossy and lustrous surface.  Carded or combed yarns are used.  Higher quality textiles are mercerized to provide a higher sheen.  Items made in sateen can be bleached, dye or printed on.

Satin can be made of silk or various man-made fibers.  One side is glossy, the other side is a twill weave with the weft-threads almost hidden. Typically, the fabric has a lustrous surface and a dull back. The luster is produced by running the textile through hot cylinders.  You can find satin in many colors, weights, varieties, qualities and degrees of stiffness.  While we can start with satin wedding gowns, we can also include other formal dresses, capes, jackets, garment lining, millinery, drapes, covers and pillow trimmings.

Typically, this fabric is found as a striped or checked cotton.  Crinkled in its weaving, the fabric has a well-known look.  Durable and easy to service, many spring items are favored in seersucker: dresses, children’s wear, uniforms, coats, nightwear, curtains, bedspreads and more.  Seersucker can come in cotton, rayon or synthetic with a slack tension or plain weave.  The woven crinkle is produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp, which is permanent.

Soft and with a brilliant sheen, silk is one of the finest textiles.  It is often used in ties, scarves, dresses, shirts, lingerie and more.  Certain species of caterpillars’ cocoons supply this strong and absorbent textile.  Did you know silk is one of the oldest known fabrics?  According to Chinese tradition, it was used as long ago as 27^th century BC.

This lightweight and flexible fabric is made of an elastomeric fiber (a type of polyurethane).  Did you know that spandex can be stretched up to five times its original length?  Spandex resists deterioration from perspiration so you can often find it in athleisure and sportswear.  This fabric is known for its strength and durability.

This type of leather has a nap finish. You can often find suede used in shoes, boots, shirts, handbags, home furnishings and more.  Before caring for your suede favorites, speak with a specialist at Hallak Cleaners.

Synthetics are man-made fibers or material. (Alternatively, organic material is made from plants or animals.) Many garments are made from synthetic textiles. In addition, some fabrics are blended with synthetics.

Supposedly originating in Iran (Persia), ‘taftah’ is a name of this “fine silk fabric”.  Taffeta can be made of silk, rayon or synthetics; the fabric usually has a plain, fine cross rib weave.  You can find taffeta in solid colors, fancy prints, watered designs and more.   Smooth to the touch with a surface sheen.  There are variations in the texture.  Commonly, the fabric has a crispness and stiffness. Often, it is used in formal wear, suits, coats, slips and ribbons.

Terry cloth is known for its absorbency.  In fact, the longer the loop, the greater the absorbency.  This cloth is often found as cotton and some linen with a pile weave.  There are also versions of jacquard and dobby combined with pile. The fabric is long-wearing, easy to launder and requires no ironing!  It can be bleached, dyed or printed. You often find terry cloth in towels, beach cover-ups, bathrobes, sportswear and more. When the pile is only on one side, it is called “Turkish Toweling”. 

3M’s 35% polyester/65% olefin insulation spun into a low-loft construction. Thinsulate is an efficient insulator in comparison to its thinness. Due to its thin nature, you can most often find in outerwear, footwear, and gloves.

This soft, fine silk net can often be found in veils and dresses.  First machine-made in 1768, the hexagonal, stiff mesh has continued to come in white and various colors.  The stately fabric is ideal for formal wear (e.g., wedding dresses), ballet costumes and veils.  At times, it can be difficult to launder.  In our restorations, we commonly repair tulle because of its nature to pull or tear.

Tweed can be found as wool, cotton, rayon, silk, linen and synthetic.  The name comes from the Scotch word for “twill”; it originates from the Tweed River banks that separates England and Scotland.  This is the sister cloth of Cheviot and Shetland’s homespun version.  Nowadays you can find tweed in a wide-range of rough surfaced, sturdy patterned fabrics.  However, there are some closely, woven types made with a softer yarn. You find your favorite tweed in plaid, checks, stripes or other

Twill is one of the three fundamental textile weaves; the other two would be a plain weave and satin.   Its characteristic is a parallel diagonal ribbed pattern.  Pants made in this fabric are perfect for a casual outing.

Athleisure loves velour.  Due to two different lengths of pile, velour has a ‘rough’ look.  The uneven lengths create light and shaded surface areas.  You may find cotton, wool or spun rayon versions.  “Velour’s” is French for ‘velvet’.

Velvet can be found in either synthetic or natural fibers.  It is a woven, tufted fabric that has a short pile.  If you are familiar with the fabric, you know that it is very soft and warm.  Fall and winter are especially idea for velvet garments.  You can find it often in formal garments, leisure wear, draperies and upholstery.  There are many types in varying weights and quality.  Higher quality velvet may be crush resistant, water resistant and drape well.

In simple terms, velveteen is imitation velvet.  While typically cotton, it can also be made of a cotton blend.  The fabric’s pile is short and closely set. Mercerized with a durable finish, velveteen is strong and durable.  (However, lesser quality versions may not be as sturdy.) Often, it is used in children’s wear, dresses, coats, draperies, lounge wear, and separates.

Viscose fabrics have a silky to matte luster – and have an elegant flowing drape.  As they absorb perspiration quickly, they are very skin-friendly.  Cellulose, usually derived from tree trunks, is converted into a highly viscous state. Then, spun into a fiber by forcing it through spinneret holes.

Everyone is pretty familiar with wool.  Various animals such as sheep, llamas, camels and goats can ‘supply’ it.  The fabric is very resilient, resists wrinkling and very warm.  Wool is most often found in clothing, blankets and winter wear.